Democracy in Oman?

There has always been a culture of reverence for Sultan Qaboos amongst locals (and most expats) in Oman. Most see him as being a leader who can do no wrong. This veneer of perfection was cracked slightly last year when the Arab Spring arrived in Oman. Although the riots and protests were not directly aimed at the Sultan, the fact that he is the head of government and, to all intents and purposes, a dictator, meant that any criticism of the government was a criticism of him.

The door or dictatorship in Oman was cracked open and democracy was allowed to briefly raise its head in the form of  protest and free speech. The ability to criticise anyone within the bounds of slander or libel is a fundamental right of democracy.

Alas, the door has been firmly shut again ...

http://gulfnews.com/news/gulf/oman/a-lese-majeste-detainee-in-oman-released-on-bail-wednesday-1.1053680

How sad that a country which has so much going for it, led by a leader who has done so much good for his people, cannot take that final step and allow the people to think and say what they will without fear of reprisal.

Look around at Oman these days and you see a brand new, shiny 21st century country. Scratch the surface and the old medieval one still lurks beneath.

A British Summer

The view outside my widnow on a lovely summer's day in the UK

I understand it is hot in Oman right now. OK, well that's a bit of a foregone conclusion really as it is basically hot there every year in the summer. Well I wish you could send some sunshine and heat over here to the UK. No doubt those vaguely interested in the tennis at Wimbledon have been watching the miserable conditions at the tournament.

Since the first week in April (yes ... April) it has been raining virtually every day, except for a brief respite in late May of about a week. Yesterday, and we're talking July here, the mercury reached the dizzy heights of 14 degC. midsummer and it is colder than an average november day in London!! The Diamond Jubilee celebrations were a cold, rainy and miserable affair (and that's not even taking into account the fact that the organisers wheeling out relics such as Paul McCartney, Elton John and Cliff Richard), Wimbledon is a mess, the cricket is washed out and I cannot see anything changing before the Olympics.

What a summer!!!

Sorry.....that's a lie; there's been no summer, just a slow progression from early spring to late autumn.

A long year

It's been a long, long year and it's only early April. I've been back to Oman for a couple of weeks and loved it - seeing old friends again and showing my partner where I lived for so many years was great and fulfilling. The holiday was both relaxing and filled with activities. Lots of time was spent at the beach (mainly Qurm and Shatti Qurm as they're my "home" beaches). I played golf ... on grass ... at the Wave! Nice. Wadi A'Shab was a disappointment - so dirty and devoid of character now. I guess it was badly affected by Gonu. The Chedi is great for an evening out. Almost got to go to the Royal Opera House but a screw up in timing meant we couldn't. Still that's something for next time. Shangri-la was a bit of a disappointment. It has no character whatsoever - just vacant opulence. Still, the beach cafe was nice. The Grand Mosque was awesome. Overall - a wonderful escape from the UK winter and a fabulous return to Oman. It's a pity it went so quickly.

Sadly, my Mum died in February. No matter how much you prepare for something like this it still comes as an awful shock and you grieve terribly. Two months later and I still find myself grieving. The process is long and difficult but I'll get there in the end.

Spring has come to the UK. We had 24 degC a couple of weeks ago. Now it is snowing in Scotland. Typical spring - there's not a better place to be at this time of year.

So a lot has happened in 3 short months.

It's almost time!

Less than 6 weeks to go before I'm heading back to Oman for a holiday with my partner. I have a few questions which some may be able to answer or give advice on. It's been over 6 years since I lived in Muscat and over 4 since I have been back for a vacation. Knowing how fast things change there, it'd be good to get some advice. So here goes:

• We're looking to go scuba diving. Is ODC still the place to go? Any other companies and/or locations reliable and good?
• How do you get to go see the turtles these days? Last time I went, I drove down with an Omani friend of mine and we slept on Turtle Beach at Ras al-Had to wait for the turtles to come in, which they did. I imagine that's way too "unofficial" these days;
• Is Jabrin Fort finished yet? Would love to go as it looked very interesting;
• Best bar in town? I liked Al-Ghazal at the Intercon so we will likely go there for old times' sake. But other ideas would be welcomed;
• How can we get to play a round of golf on a grass course? It was all sand when I lived in Oman!
• Best shopping experience? I lived in Qurm and I see there's a City Centre there now. Is it better than the Seeb City Centre? Always felt a bit short changed there;
• I hear A'Seefah beach is being developed. Is it still worth a visit for a day out at the beach? If not, where's the best place to go? I used to go to Qantab Beach but I hear it has declined lately;
• Is Wadi Shab still a not-to-be-missed experience? I know there's a black top all the way there these days (what a shame) so it is well within striking distance, but if it is not as it was then we'll give it a miss and go somewhere else;
• Any other advice?

Thanks a lot. See you in Oman (we may pass each other in the street - or the beach - or the shopping centre) and never know!

Slave labour in Oman - does nothing change?!

I've just been flicking my way through the 14th September edition of The Week. Having read the lead article on the plight of the eight construction workers from Orissa, India, who resigned due to the appalling treatment they were given by the company which employed them, The Al Kindy Distinct Project, I'm astounded that this sort of practice continues in Oman today.

The cogs of Omani society are oiled by TCNs doing the work that some locals deem to base and demeaning to do (not all locals, I venture to add, just some) but if you're employed to do this work then you should be paid a fair wage and given decent working/living conditions - no matter what type of work you do.

I first lived in Oman almost 20 years ago and even back then there were labour laws which set out the rights of the worker. Why doesn't the Omani government implement these laws? It beggars belief that Oman is held in such high regard by the international community for its progress over the last 40 years when it has such scant regard for many of the labourers who built the country and continue to sustain it day in day out, year on year.

Shame on the Al Kindy Distinct Project for their cruel and reprehensible behaviour towards its expatriate workers and shame on the Omani government for allowing such companies to exist and thrive in a country which deserves better.

Eid Mubarak! (Enjoy your drink!)

Texted a few friends back in Oman on the occasion of Eid. Two were standing in separate lines ready to pay for booze after the long slog through Ramadhan. Nice to see some things haven't changed since I left!

Coming to Oman!

Just booked up some flights for me and my other half to visit Oman on holiday in early 2012. It'll be four long years since I was there. We'll be staying with old friends (OK, friends - they're not too old). I used up some precious air miles for the flights, so all in all it'll be a nice (and cheap) winter break full of relaxation, socialising and reminiscing!

I'll be interested to see how things have changed since I left in 2005.

I always said that living in such a 'young' country as Oman, a year was like a decade living elsewhere - buildings pop up from nowhere; shops, restaurants, cafes come and go; urbanisation creeps ever outwards as the suburbs become bigger.

When I first lived in Oman, there was nothing north of Bowshar until you got to Seeb other than the airport. There was one cinema showing English language movies (Star Cinema in Ruwi). There was no satellite TV, only a 15 minute daily news programme in English on Oman TV. There was no Muscat Festival (thank God!), no Hyatt Hotel, no road along the beach at Qurm, no paved road from Quriyat down to Sur, no City Centre, no big auto showrooms on Honda Road, no tourist visas at the airport, no Grand Mosque, no flyovers anywhere....etc....etc...etc...

Like I said, it'll be interesting to see how things have changed.

What should I be looking out for when I come?